You can save a weakly affected plant by washing it soapy water. When the problem is gaining large proportions, use:

• Akarin.
• Tanrek.
• Tobacco dust.
• Fitoverm.
• Commander, etc.

gall nematode

This kind of pest occurs in the root system of hydrangeas. The gall nematode is a microscopic worm. They are able to form swelling (galls) on the roots. In the future, these galls begin the putrefactive process. The roots will begin to die off, and useful components will no longer be supplied to the plant. Most often, such pests are found on young flowers.

Also, hydrangeas cause damage to such pests:

• Goose and leaf beetles.
• Earwigs.
• Scoops.
• Bronze cars, etc.

If the plant is properly cared for, then pests of this kind are not afraid of it.

Preventive measures what to do

Strange as it may sound, prevention is the best treatment for hydrangeas. A weak and sluggish shrub is easier for diseases and pests to capture, but a strong plant is too tough for them.

What to watch out for in the fight for plant health:

• Dry soil and direct sunlight. When the thermometer shows a temperature of more than 30 ° C, the leaves and hydrangea inflorescences wither. For this reason, it is better to plant it in a shady area. Watering in such sunshine is carried out every other day.

Amazing fact! Hydrangea, the variety of which has a bright blue tint, is less prone to withering.

• Dry and unfavorable soil is an excellent breeding ground for viruses and fungi. Before planting hydrangeas, the soil should be prepared. The plant is very fond of acidic soil. Also, mineral additives are placed in the hole so that there is a high-quality recharge. In the first days of summer, nitrogenous fertilizers are used, the entire hot period - potassium and phosphorus. For autumn, only phosphorus will be enough.
• Wood processing plays an important role. To do this, you need copper sulfate (diluted with water). This solution serves as a disinfectant. To prevent the appearance of fungus, a mixture of copper sulphate and lime is used (can be replaced with copper oxychloride). To search for the necessary drug, you can go to a flower shop. Drugs that have appeared on the market now are less harmful to environment.

Leaf diseases what to do

Both the whole flower and its leaves can get sick. Let's deal with this problem a little.

Why did the hydrangea turn red leaves, what does it say:

• The soil is not sufficiently saturated with acidity, in such conditions it is difficult for the plant to absorb nutrients.
• The soil lacks trace elements and phosphorus.

When the tips of the plant begin to dry, the hydrangea is lacking in potassium or you are watering it too often.

If there is really a lack of acid in the soil, it can be artificially acidified. For this you will need:

• Water - 10 liters.
• Oxalic acid (citric) - half a teaspoon.

Water the plant with the resulting solution.

Why leaves turn yellow

• With a lot of moisture.
• The soil lacks acidity. You need to slightly acidify the soil. The procedure is carried out repeatedly.
• The shrub can grow in a draft.
• Hypothermia or a sharp temperature drop has occurred.
• If the hydrangea is planted in direct sunlight. She needs an area with diffused lighting.
• Not enough nutrients in the soil. Need a feed.

Why leaves dry:

• Hot summer, little moisture.
• The air is too dry. This happens with greenhouse cultivation. In this case, humidifiers are installed.
• Sometimes the foliage can dry out if transplanted incorrectly, when the roots were damaged. In this case, you need to show perseverance and patience. The treatment will take about 2 months.
• The soil is not nutritious enough. It should be fertilized at least once a week.

Hydrangea leaves turn black. Blackness can be of 2 types:

• Dry.
• Sluggish (wet).

When the leaves are struck by dry blackness, their edges form brown spots, they dry, wither and turn black. This is possible when:

• Sun burns. This can happen both during a greenhouse, indoor cultivation, and landing in open ground. Direct sunlight should be avoided.
• Irrigation water is very hard. It is not advisable to water the flowers with tap water. It must be rain or settled room temperature. If you collect a large capacity of water, then in a day it will heat up, and all impurities will settle to the bottom.

Sluggish blackness is very easily determined by leaves that have black spots. They wither and fall off. The reasons for this phenomenon may be:

• Frequent poly, high humidity.
• Temperature drop.
• drafts.
• The soil for planting should be nutritious and light. Dry and heavy soil interferes with the development of the plant, retains moisture.

Large-leaved hydrangea cultivation and care FloweryValeru

Hydrangea macrophylla(Hydrangea macrophylla) - in favorable places for growth, it grows into a real shrub. Hydrangea is also called hydrangia, which in Greek is a vessel with water, which indicates that hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant. In total, there are 80 types of hydrangeas in the world, common in America and East Asia.

At the end of the 19th century, hydrangea was brought from Japan to Europe, where its victorious march began. It was in Europe, namely in France, that varieties of large-leaved hydrangea were bred. But, unfortunately, large-leaved hydrangea is less winter-hardy compared to other species, for example, petiole hydrangea. Therefore, when growing large-leaved hydrangea in gardens under conditions middle lane Russia should know that without winter shelter it practically does not hibernate.

The leaves of the large-leaved hydrangea are large, ovate, opposite, in spring and summer they are bright green in color, by autumn they begin to turn red, so that the hydrangea bush remains decorative for almost the entire season.

hydrangea flowers large, about 3 cm in diameter, mostly pink, collected in large corymbose inflorescences up to 15 -20 cm in diameter. In new varietal forms of hydrangea, flowers can be white, pink and even blue. Hydrangea blooms in July, but the flowers do not fall off, but only become slightly greenish and remain on the branches until next spring. Hydrangea - very ornamental plant, not in vain she fell in love with many flower growers.

Large-leaved hydrangea used to be grown mainly only as an indoor pot plant. But with the development of new frost-resistant varieties, it became possible Growing hydrangeas in the garden.

soil for hydrangea

Hydrangea prefers slightly - or medium acidic (pH 5.5) soil; The composition of the soil for hydrangeas: turf and leaf soil, sand, peat, humus in equal proportions 1:1:1:1:1. It should be remembered that hydrangea suffers greatly from lime in the soil, so you need to Maintain soil acidity.

Hydrangea has another feature: it can change the color of flowers depending on the acidity of the soil, and by the color of the inflorescences you can easily guess the reaction of the soil: pink inflorescences on soils with a slightly alkaline reaction, blue and even blue on acidic soils.

Before planting my hydrangea, I went to the forest for soil. I dug up a whole bag of soft soil under the pines, along with needles and cones. It is in this land that my hydrangea grows. Flowers pink. So far I have not experimented with changing the color of flowers, but I think everything is ahead of me. I also want to see blue hydrangea flowers.

Landing place

Large-leaved hydrangea is relatively photophilous, but still try it Plant in light shade. Hydrangea is never planted under trees, as they absorb moisture from the soil a lot. In the sun, the hydrangea may suffer from overdrying of the soil, it will bloom later in the shade, the flowering will not be as plentiful as in the open, and the inflorescences may even be even smaller. Therefore, try to find a middle ground. I chose such a place for her that the base of the bush always remains in the shade, in the sun only the upper part of the hydrangea.

Planting hydrangeas

It is advisable to plant large-leaved hydrangea in open ground in the spring, after the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up. If you have several bushes, hydrangeas, then keep the distance between plants at a distance of one meter. If the hydrangea seedling is small, then a shallow hole is enough: 35x35x35 cm. If the plant is already large, then the hole should be made larger. Don't forget drainage. Fill the hole with the prepared soil mixture.

At the same time, organic and complete mineral fertilizers are applied. They will help the formation of flower buds next year. After watering The soil under the hydrangea needs to be mulched. Mulch will allow the soil to stay moist longer, and this is the main condition in growing hydrangeas. Pine needles, peat, sawdust are perfect for mulch. The thickness of the mulching layer should be about 10 cm. During the summer, the mulch is loosened 2-3 times. To retain moisture in the soil under the hydrangea, you can use a hydrogel.

Watering hydrangeas

Water for watering hydrangeas should be soft, as they cannot stand lime. Rain water is the best. If there is no rain for a long time, then tap water should settle, warm up. But be aware that with constant use tap water leaf chlorosis is still possible. Therefore, to soften the water when watering hydrangeas, periodically add lemon juice, vinegar, a drop of electrolyte. The introduction of iron salts into the soil, for example, ferrophyte, iron chelate, ferrous sulfate, will help to avoid leaf chlorosis. remember, that Hydrangea loves moisture: one bush per week should receive at least two buckets of water. During short rains or when using mulch, you can water the hydrangea once a month.

top dressing

As we already know, the color of hydrangea flowers can change depending on the acidity of the soil. If iron salts and alum (crystals) are applied twice a month, the color of the flowers will turn blue or blue. Try on one side of the bush to add alum to the soil, and on the other - do not add. Such an approach will allow various colors inflorescences: will bloom at the same time and blue flowers, and pink. Eight to ten ammonia-potassium or potassium alum is dissolved in two liters of water. This solution is enough to feed one bush. Also, for coloring hydrangea flowers in blue color you can use a bluing agent. It can be purchased at flower shops.

But it is better to immediately forget about feeding hydrangeas with ashes. In spring, hydrangea is very responsive to organic fertilizing, for example, mullein solution. In addition to alum and iron salts, mineral fertilizers for heather, rhododendrons and azaleas or acidic mineral fertilizers, such as ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate, are suitable for hydrangeas.

Fertilization phases:

- in the spring, at the beginning of growth (for the formation of new strong shoots);
- in June, during the budding period (for the correct and abundant formation of buds);
- in summer, during flowering (for long flowering and laying new flower buds for the next year).

In the first year of planting hydrangeas in the ground, watering with a weak solution of manganese is possible so that the shoots do not rot. Instead of manganese, any other fungicide, such as phytosporin, will do.

Hydrangea shelter for the winter

Closer to autumn, start preparing hydrangeas for winter. If the weather is dry outside, then water it. remember, that Hydrangea will tolerate frost better if the fall received enough water. Do not forget to also spray with a Bordeaux mixture in the fall so that the branches do not get stuck in winter shelter and in order to neutralize fungal diseases.

In the second half of October, when night frosts are already observed, hydrangea bushes are spudded to a height of up to 30 cm. As long as there are no severe frosts, the bush can be covered on top with agrospan or perforated polyethylene film in two layers. In late October - early November, bend the hydrangea branches to the ground, cover with dry leaves, spruce branches. Place a crate or box on top. They cover the hydrangea for the winter in the same way as roses.

Hydrangea diseases and pests photo

This decorative culture has taken its place in our gardens so firmly that it sometimes seems as if it has always grown there, even in our distant childhood. Still, the greenery of the leaves, and the caps of flowers all summer until late-late autumn.

And no thorns that peel off the hands.

But she also has problems.

DISEASES OF HYDRANIA

Tracheomycosis wilt (photo 1) caused by fungi - soil pathogens that persist for many years on plant debris. In the presence of a soil infection, the roots of plants are first affected, which turn brown and rot. Then the mycelium penetrates the conductive vascular system and fills it with its biological mass. The inflow stops nutrients, and plants, starting from the upper young shoots, wither, turn yellow, gradually turn brown and dry. Browning of leaf veins is observed on many leaves of adult plants. On sections of cuttings and roots, a mycelium plaque develops.

With fusarium, the mycelium is pinkish-white, with verticillium - grayish, more airy. Very often, the infection is spread precisely by rooted cuttings taken from infected plants.

White sclerocial rot (photo 2)- a fungal disease, the causative agent of which remains in the soil in plant debris in the form of sclerotia. First, the roots rot, the flow of nutrients stops, the plant stops growing, turns brown and dries up. When young plants are affected, the growing shoots and leaves turn brown, rot and become covered with a dense white cotton-like bloom, in which large irregularly shaped black sclerotia with a lighter interior are formed over time.

Gray rot (photo 3), one might say, a fashionable disease for this culture. The causative agent is a soil pathogen that at the same time infects most of the plants in our garden, it persists as black, but smaller sclerotia.

Brown, depressed, rapidly growing spots appear on the stems, brown spots on the leaves, zonal, without bordering. In dry weather, the dead tissue of the spots cracks and falls out, leaving holes.

With an abundance of precipitation, all parts of plants affected by gray rot are covered with smoky-gray fluffy mycelium, the spores of which re-infect neighboring leaves and petals. In the mycelium, small black fruiting bodies, sclerotia, form over time.

Ordinary, or European, Cancer (photo 4, 5) spread to last years it is with imported planting material, and it affects almost all deciduous trees and shrubs.

Elongated brown spots appear on the bark, the bark dries up, cracks, and a brown ulcer gap opens under it with edges raised due to the influx of callus. The ulcer deepens over time, the wood dies, and the stems dry out. Often manifested by browning and drying of side shoots during the growing season.

This decorative culture has taken its place in our gardens so firmly that it sometimes seems as if it has always grown there, even in our distant childhood. Still, the greenery of the leaves, and the caps of flowers all summer until late-late autumn.

And no thorns that peel off the hands.

But she also has problems.

DISEASES OF HYDRANIA

Tracheomycosis wilt (photo 1) caused by fungi - soil pathogens that persist for many years on plant debris. In the presence of a soil infection, the roots of plants are first affected, which turn brown and rot. Then the mycelium penetrates the conducting vascular system and fills it with its biological mass. The influx of nutrients stops, and plants, starting from the upper young shoots, wither, turn yellow, gradually turn brown and dry. Browning of leaf veins is observed on many leaves of adult plants. On sections of cuttings and roots, a mycelium plaque develops.

With fusarium, the mycelium is pinkish-white, with verticillium - grayish, more airy. Very often, the infection is spread precisely by rooted cuttings taken from infected plants.

White sclerocial rot (photo 2)- a fungal disease, the causative agent of which persists in the soil in plant debris in the form of sclerotia. First, the roots rot, the flow of nutrients stops, the plant stops growing, turns brown and dries up. When young plants are affected, the growing shoots and leaves turn brown, rot and become covered with a dense white cotton-like bloom, in which large irregularly shaped black sclerotia with a lighter interior are formed over time.

Gray rot (photo 3), one might say, a fashionable disease for this culture. The causative agent is a soil pathogen that at the same time infects most of the plants in our garden, it persists as black, but smaller sclerotia.

Brown, depressed, rapidly growing spots appear on the stems, brown spots on the leaves, zonal, without bordering. In dry weather, the dead tissue of the spots cracks and falls out, leaving holes.

With an abundance of precipitation, all parts of plants affected by gray rot are covered with smoky-gray fluffy mycelium, the spores of which re-infect neighboring leaves and petals. In the mycelium, small black fruiting bodies, sclerotia, form over time.

Ordinary, or European, cancer (photo 4, 5) spread in recent years precisely with imported planting material, and it affects almost all deciduous trees and shrubs.

Elongated brown spots appear on the bark, the bark dries up, cracks, and a brown ulcer gap opens under it with edges raised due to the influx of callus. The ulcer deepens over time, the wood dies, and the stems dry out. Often manifested by browning and drying of side shoots during the growing season.

The infection persists in the affected wood. More often cancer manifests itself in a weakened planting material in places of frost holes and mechanical damage and in dense plantings.

Tubercular necrosis of the cortex (photo 6) causes death (necrosis) of the bark and is common on many deciduous trees and shrubs. During the growing season, there is a sharp browning and drying of the shoots with leaves. Numerous brick-red sporulation pads up to 2 mm in diameter are formed on the bark of dried stems; over time, they darken and dry out. The infection persists in the affected stems.

Powdery mildew (photo 7) manifests itself on young leaves with separate spots of a grayish cobwebby-powdery coating. Over time, the spots grow, the plaque darkens and even erases. But the damaged tissue leaf blade becomes reddish-brown and dries up in the form of large brown spots. The leaves dry up prematurely and fall off. On some varieties of hydrangea susceptible to powdery mildew, young growing shoots are severely affected. First, small spots of grayish plaque appear, which quickly disappear, but the bark becomes necrotic, covered with reddish spots, the shoots are deformed, overwinter poorly and freeze.

Several spots appear on the leaves of bushes from mid-summer.

At ascochitosis spotting (photo 8) the spots on the leaves are rounded, often irregular in shape, proliferating, yellowish-brick with a thin brown border. Convex small brown fruiting bodies of the overwintering stage of the fungus are formed in the necrotic tissue. Leaves turn yellow and fall prematurely.

Phyllostic blotch (photo 9) manifests itself in the form of merging dark red or black spots, the center of which brightens to a grayish-brown color, but a wide purple-brown border remains. On the upper side of the necrotic tissue, sporulation develops in the form of black pads.

Septoria spotting (photo 10) manifested by numerous, rounded, scattered spots of dark brown color. The necrotic tissue in the center brightens, but a thin brown rim always remains. Over time, small black fruiting bodies of the overwintering stage of the pathogen fungus form in the necrotic tissue. With a strong spread of the disease, spots can appear on petioles and young stems. Depending on the variety, lazy or rather large single ones. The infection persists in the affected plant debris. The defeat of the leaves reduces the overall decorative effect and worsens the ripening of shoots that overwinter worse.

These spots were of a mushroom nature, and this, believe me, is not the worst option, there is much worse - ring spot (photo 11) caused by the hydrangea ring spot virus. Young leaves show light punctate necrosis, light round spots, often blurry. There may be slight deformation of the leaf blade and an asymmetric shape with irregular venation. With a strong lesion, flowering is weak, the flowers are underdeveloped, small.

PESTS OF HYDENSIA

There are quite a lot of pests on hydrangeas, and almost all of them are polyphagous, that is, they are common in the garden on many plants. A lot is found in thickened plantings of gastropod mollusk bushes with a spirally twisted shell - snails (1). Most often it is a large grape snail and smaller common amber. They live in moist, shady places and feed on leaves, green shoots, and buds.

Of the small sucking pests on hydrangeas, greenhouse tripe, spider mites, aphids (greenhouse, pelargonium, bean) are common. All of them feed on the sap of plant tissues and, in large numbers, cause yellowing and premature leaf fall. Larger sucking pests constantly feed on young leaves - slobbering penny (2) and bedbugs and their larvae. Berry bug, green tree bug and meadow bug are more common.

Of the leaf-eating pests, the brilliant fawn leaf beetle (3), the nettle leaf weevil (4), which eat holes in the leaves, are common. Leafworm caterpillars (5) roll the apical leaves into a ball, feed and pupate inside. There are also injuries in the form of rough eating of leaves, which are left by caterpillars of night butterflies - a scoop. Large beautiful beetles are constantly found on hydrangea inflorescences - golden bronze and hairy deer. They gnaw stamens and pistils at flowers, but their larvae, which develop in the soil and feed on small plant roots, cause the greatest harm. The more of these beetles in your garden, the more larvae gnaw on the roots of plants. The harmless-looking marsh weevil mosquito (6) also sits in the shade of the leaves for a reason. Long-legged mosquito larvae also feed on small plant roots. Quite often found on hydrangea bushes and earwigs (7). An adult beetle gnaws both the petals of flowering plants and young leaves. The pests are quite different, but they do not cause much harm, since they are most often found singly.

Gall nematode (8) - microscopic worms that live in the tissues of plant roots, forming numerous rounded brown swellings - galls. Over time, the galls rot and dry out, and the affected roots die off. The influx of nutrients to the vegetative parts stops, due to which there is a sharp delay in the growth and development of plants. Young bushes, which quickly die off, are most damaged.

All problems associated with the loss of decorativeness and the death of plants are most often associated with weakened specimens.

Therefore, it is worth once again recalling the common truth: it is necessary to use healthy, zoned material, comply with all the requirements of agricultural technology, timely phytosanitary cleaning with the removal of dried branches and bushes, and annual spring spraying bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (HOM, Abiga Peak). This will solve problems with cancer, bark necrosis, leaf spots.

Fortunately for gardeners, hydrangea diseases are not very common. However, yellowing of hydrangea leaves, aphids, fungal and viral diseases sometimes affect this luxurious plant. How to prevent hydrangea diseases and how to organize the correct treatment of hydrangeas, if the trouble has climbed onto your site, we will talk in today's article.

It’s worth saying right away that the lion’s share of hydrangea diseases is transferred through seedlings. Therefore, you should buy hydrangea seedlings only in reliable nurseries, and when propagating hydrangeas with cuttings, be sure that the parent plant is healthy. Most often, hydrangea diseases occur when high humidity air, especially with a strong density of plantings.

Another group of hydrangea diseases occurs due to a lack of certain substances, primarily chlorosis, which manifests itself as yellowing of hydrangea leaves. Let's start our review with it.

Hydrangea chlorosis

Hydrangea chlorosis

Hydrangea chlorosis occurs due to metabolic disorders in the plant. It is experiencing iron deficiency, as a result of which the leaves of hydrangeas turn yellow, brighten, and the veins on the leaves remain dark. If you try to ignore this disease of hydrangeas, over time the plant will weaken and lose its beauty. To prevent chlorosis of hydrangeas, they are fertilized with iron-containing preparations according to the instructions. You should also avoid watering hydrangeas with tap water, for these purposes it is better to take a softer, rain water. Most often, the leaves of hydrangeas growing on soils rich in lime and overfed with humus turn yellow. But what if the leaves of hydrangeas have already turned yellow?

For a faster recovery of the bush, it is recommended spraying hydrangeas preparations Agricol, iron chelate, antichlorosis, ferovit, ferrilen, micro Fe, brexil. In especially advanced cases of hydrangea chlorosis, these drugs should be applied under the root.

Another option - hydrangea treatment for chlorosis with a solution potassium nitrate (40 grams of potassium nitrate per bucket of water) and iron sulfate(iron vitriol) in the same concentration. After 2-3 waterings with saltpeter, wait three days and pour over with a solution of ferrous sulfate.

Fungal diseases of hydrangeas

Do not be alarmed - in fact, hydrangeas are rarely affected by fungal diseases. But it is better to be prepared for unpleasant surprises. A universal remedy for fungal diseases of hydrangeas is treatment with copper oxychloride (HOM) - this is the most suitable for hydrangeas.

White rot of hydrangeas

White rot of hydrangeas

It's mushroom hydrangea disease begins with root rot. As a result, the plant does not receive nutrients, it turns brown and dies. If the disease affects young hydrangeas, the growing shoots and leaves darken, begin to rot and become covered with “cotton wool” - a soft white bloom. Over time, black blotches appear in the “cotton wool” - sclerotia. The causative agent of the disease remains in the soil, getting there with plant debris.

Hydrangea white rot treatment: for fungal diseases of hydrangeas, phytosporin showed high efficiency. Other fungicides may also be used.

Gray mold of hydrangeas

Gray mold of hydrangeas

Another dangerous disease hydrangeas, in which the tissues of the plant become watery, soft. In dry weather, the dead tissue dries up, falls out, and holes remain in the leaves and on the stem. In wet weather, the fungus spreads very quickly, all infected areas are covered with "gray wool". Gray rot is difficult to exterminate, since this disease is characteristic of almost all garden plants.

Treatment of gray mold of hydrangeas : dead parts of hydrangeas must be removed. The results are obtained by processing hydrangeas with Chistotsvet, Skorom, Fundazol.

Downy mildew of hydrangeas (downy mildew)

This hydrangea disease manifests itself in the form of oily, over time and darkening spots on the stems and leaves. Fungal disease actively develops at high humidity and a temperature of 18-20 degrees.

Treatment of downy mildew of plants : the plant is treated with a solution of soapy water and copper sulfate (15 grams of vitriol and 150 grams of soap per bucket of water). This treatment of hydrangeas will help in the early stages of the disease. You can treat hydrangea with fungicides.

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas

This fungal disease of hydrangeas is characterized by the presence of yellow-green spots on the leaves, which eventually turn brown and take on clear forms. At the same time, a purple or grayish coating is visible on the lower part of the sheet. Over time, the affected leaves fall off. Young shoots are especially affected by this fungus, they are deformed and, as a rule, do not survive wintering.

Powdery mildew treatment : hydrangea is sprayed with fungicides - Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M. If the hydrangea disease has severely affected the plant, Chistotsvet, Thiovit Jet, Topaz, Skor, Strobi, Cumulus can be used.

Septoria hydrangeas (septoria blotch of hydrangeas)

Septoria hydrangeas

Such a disease of hydrangeas as septoria manifests itself in the form of brown spots of a rounded irregular shape, with a light center and a dark rim. Hydrangea septoria affects leaves, but in neglected plants it spreads to young stems and petioles. Over time, the spots merge, the leaves die off. Hydrangea disease septoria reduces the ability of hydrangeas to hibernate.

Treatment of septoria hydrangeas: treatment with copper-containing preparations - copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, etc.

Among other common fungal diseases of hydrangeas - common cancer, tracheomycosis wilt, cortical necrosis, phyllostic and ascochitous spotting. In general, the treatment of hydrangeas for fungal diseases is carried out with fungicides. But fungal diseases are not the worst thing that can happen to hydrangeas.

Viral diseases of hydrangeas

Hydrangea ring spot

The most frequently occurring Hydrangea ring spot is a viral disease of hydrangeas. Initially, blurry spots of necrosis in the form of rings appear on the leaves of hydrangeas, the leaves begin to wrinkle, become asymmetric. With a strong defeat by the ring spot, the plant cannot lay buds, or the flowers turn out to be small, weak.

Hydrangea ring spot treatment. Unfortunately, this viral disease of hydrangeas cannot be treated. You need to carefully monitor the quality of seedlings.

Hydrangea pests

Snails on hydrangeas

Snails love hydrangeas. Most often it is an ordinary amber or a grape snail. They especially like moist shady thickened plantings. Snails on hydrangeas eat buds, young shoots and leaves. Snails pose a great danger to hydrangeas wintering under shelter: mollusks burrow into the soil around the bush, and as soon as the temperature rises in spring, they get out of the ground and feed on the first buds and leaves. Near the hydrangea bush, you can see the clutches of snails.

How to get rid of snails on hydrangeas: in addition to the mechanical destruction of these mollusks and their clutches in spring and summer, metaldehyde or "Thunderstorm" can be used. These poisonous preparations should not be placed directly on the ground - they clog the soil, and cease to act, mixing with the soil. Chemicals are poured into cups and laid out in a horizontal position around the bush.

Spider mite on hydrangea

Spider mite on hydrangea

If you notice that small yellow spots appear on the back of the hydrangea leaf, which eventually merge into a marble pattern - this is the spider mite on the hydrangea. Over time, the affected leaf dries out and falls off. If these hydrangea pests have thoroughly populated the bush, you can see cobwebs with mites (with a small lesion, the spider mite is not visible to the naked eye), necrosis appears.

Treatment of hydrangea from Putin's mite: apply insectoacaracids and acaracids - thiophos, preparations Lightning, Akarin, Fitoverm, Vermitek. With a weak defeat of hydrangea spider mite treatment with mineral oil or soap may help.

Aphids on hydrangeas

Settling on hydrangeas, the aphid sucks the juice from the plant, simultaneously polluting it with sugary secretions. They, in turn, serve as food for soot fungi. Aphids on hydrangeas are also dangerous because they can carry viruses. Aphids settle on the lower part of the leaf, with a strong lesion, the hydrangea may turn yellow, and the leaves will fall off.

Treatment of hydrangeas from aphids: with a weak lesion, you can try to simply wash off the pests of hydrangeas with soapy water. Insecticides - Tobacco dust, Spark, Bison, Antilin, Fitoverm, Aktara, Akarin, Tanrek, Commander and other means - are used for large-scale aphids.

Gall nematode on hydrangea

This pest lives on the roots of hydrangeas. Microscopic worms - gall nematodes - form brown round swellings on the root, called galls. The galls rot, the roots die off, the hydrangeas do not receive nutrients. Most often, this pest of hydrangeas affects young bushes.

There are a lot of insects that can harm hydrangeas: bugs, pennitsy, leaf-eating pests (weevils, leaf beetle, caterpillars, scoops, deer, bronzovki, earwigs). However, for a healthy, strong plant and a caring owner, these pests are not particularly scary.

Hydrangea diseases: prevention

Don't take it for granted, but remember: prevention is the best cure. Diseases of hydrangeas can be severely damaged if the bush is weak, and a healthy plant will endure the disease with firmness.

What can weaken a plant, making it easy prey for fungi, viruses, and pests?

-sunshine and insufficient watering. If the air temperature exceeds 30 degrees, the inflorescences and leaves of the hydrangea begin to fade. Therefore, hydrangea loves partial shade. In such heat, you need to water the plant at least every other day. By the way, it has been noticed that varieties of hydrangeas with a bright blue color are less prone to withering.

- improper feeding, unsuitable soil. We wrote more about this in the article. Here we only mention that hydrangea does not like heavy soils. At the beginning of summer, a stake is made on nitrogenous fertilizers, in summer - on potash-phosphorus, in autumn - on phosphorus.

-wood treatment with chemicals for prevention. The standard option is hydrangea processing (100 grams per bucket of water). It is used before the growing season, in the spring, because copper sulfate burns the leaves. Perfectly disinfects the earth. You can also use a mixture of lime and copper sulfate - Bordeaux mixture, this solution is suitable for fighting fungi. An excellent alternative to Bordeaux liquid - oxychom (HOM, copper oxychloride), Topaz, Fitosporin, Spark and many other drugs. Modern drugs are generally less harmful to the environment than their predecessors - pay attention to this.

We hope our article will help overcome hydrangea diseases, or warn them. Although a lot will depend on the variety of hydrangeas - some new varieties have a rather low immunity to fungi. You can read more about, as well as about and about the right one in our separate articles.

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board of the Sobcorrespondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-industrial bulletin"

Like any other plants, hydrangeas are prone to disease and pest reproduction, although this happens extremely rarely. Sometimes flower growers notice that the leaves of the plant have turned yellow, aphids, a fungus, or a viral infection have appeared. All the main diseases of garden hydrangea can be divided into two main groups according to the nature of their origin:

• fungal;
• viral.

Professional gardeners name several reasons for the defeat of this flowering plant of pests:

• soil contamination with pathogenic microorganisms;
• improper plant care;
• excessively high humidity and frequent temperature changes;
• lack of nutrients.

The main diseases of hydrangeas and their treatment

Chlorosis

Most often hydrangeas. With this disease, they turn yellow and fall off, dryness and brittleness of the branches appear, and a gradual grinding of the inflorescences is also noted. The disease is caused by a metabolic disorder, which usually occurs with a lack of iron. Plants planted on soils with a significant amount of lime are more susceptible to chlorosis. An excess of humus in the soil also leads to chlorosis. The development of chlorosis can also be caused by watering the plant with cold and not settled water, excessive use of organic fertilizers. Chlorosis should not be ignored, since this disease can lead to a complete loss of plant attractive appearance. Moreover, the hydrangea may even stop blooming. Control measures: At the first signs of the disease, the plant must be treated with a solution of potassium nitrate for 3 weeks: 40 g is diluted in 10 liters of water. After this course of treatment for several days, the plant should be treated with a solution of iron sulfate in the same concentration. To prevent the development of chlorosis, hydrangeas should be periodically fed with fertilizers containing iron.

Gray rot

Gray rot is a fungal disease that can cause the death of hydrangeas. Rot affects the entire plant - leaves, stem, buds and even flower stalks. When tissues are affected by this fungus, their structure becomes soft and watery. A sign of the disease is the appearance of wet spots with a gray coating, which grow to quite large sizes. In dry weather, the stems of affected specimens dry out and fall off. With the development of gray rot, rainy and damp weather is especially dangerous, since at high humidity the fungus spreads at a rapid speed, infecting new areas of the soil. When these spots appear, you must immediately take measures to combat the disease. An important condition for preventing the disease is the destruction of diseased leaves. Control measures: If the rot has not spread to the entire plant, only the affected parts of the hydrangea are removed, and healthy stems and leaves are treated with Bordeaux mixture or foundation. If the spots have spread to the stem, the plant must be dug up and destroyed.

white rot

White rot is a fungal disease that primarily affects root system plants. The roots of hydrangea with the development of white rot begin to rot, as a result of which the plant does not receive the necessary nutrients. Soon the leaves and stems of the hydrangea turn brown and die off. The causative agent of white rot is a pathogenic fungus that enters the soil with plant remains. In the case when white rot affects young specimens, it forms on leaves and shoots. white coating reminiscent of his appearance cotton wool. After some time, black dots - sclerotia - can be found in this plaque. Fungicidal preparations, such as Fitosporin, are effective against white rot.

powdery mildew

There are two types of this fungal disease that affects hydrangea:

• downy mildew, or Peronosporosis;
• real.

Less commonly, hydrangea suffers from downy mildew. It affects the leaves and stems of hydrangeas. Its first signs are the appearance on the leaves of oily, later turning yellow spots, gradually darkening and increasing in size. A yellowish coating appears below the leaves, the same coating can be on young stems. The development of the disease is facilitated by high humidity and a temperature of 18-20 ° C. Control measures: In the early stages of the development of the fungus, you can get rid of it by treating the affected plants with a copper-soap liquid (150 g of green soap, 15 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). This liquid is harmless to plants, and its use in the early stages of development helps to completely get rid of the disease. If it was not possible to get rid of the fungus, then fungicidal preparations should be used. real powdery mildew from a false form of this fungal disease can be distinguished by signs such as the formation of yellow-green spots on the leaves of the plant.

Pay attention to this photo: here are signs of such a hydrangea disease as downy and powdery mildew.

Septoria

This disease is manifested by the formation of brown spots with a diameter of 5 mm on the leaves of the hydrangea. If septoria is not treated, the leaves will soon completely darken and fall off the stems. This disease can deprive the plant of all leaves. Signs of this hydrangea disease can be seen in the photo below:

Fighting methods:

1. Remove fallen leaves affected by septoria in a timely manner so that the fungus does not infect other parts of the soil.
2. Cut off the affected stems and leaves, lightly capturing healthy areas.
3. In spring, spray hydrangeas with Bordeaux mixture and Profit.

The features of processing hydrangea leaves in the treatment of this disease can be found in the photo below:

Rust

Another common fungal disease of hydrangeas that many gardeners face is rust. The disease manifests itself in a rusty color on the leaves, the disease can occur as a result of an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Treatment of plants with copper chloride by spraying affected and healthy leaves will help eliminate signs of rust. To prepare the solution, 20 grams of copper should be dissolved in 5 liters of water. Also effective against rust are drugs such as Topaz and Falcon. The external manifestations of this hydrangea disease and its treatment are presented in this photo:

Too high humidity and tightness can cause an invasion of snails and slugs, which can be severe. In the presence of too many harmful organisms, plants are treated with drugs such as Karbofos, Fitoverm, Aktellik. Meta is recommended against slugs. Familiarity with the main diseases

Most summer residents prefer to grow not only fruit or vegetable plants, but also decorate their plots with a variety of colors. Most often, the choice falls on various varieties of tulips, daffodils, petunias, lilies and other beautiful flowering plants. Your garden can be decorated not only with the above plants, but also with such a lush attractive plant like hydrangea paniculata.

Description and varieties of hydrangea paniculata

In nature hydrangea paniculata is found on the territory of Sakhalin, Japan and China, reaching a height of 10 meters. On the territory of Russia and in other countries, the hydrangea reaches only 2-3 meters in height, but at the same time it adapts perfectly to any climatic conditions. In a harsh winter, a small part of the shoots may suffer, but the hydrangea will recover quickly. Subject to all the rules for growing hydrangea can add about 25 cm in height every year.

This plant looks very attractive in the summer and autumn seasons. It is in the middle of summer in the inflorescences that the plants begin to gradually open up. beautiful small flowers, which, in turn, are divided into 2 types:

• sterile (about 3 centimeters);
• bisexual (their size is slightly smaller, and the petals fall much faster than those of sterile ones).

This representative of the hydrangea family begins to bloom upon reaching 3 years of age. At the same time, most varieties of hydrangea paniculata during the flowering period, the color of the petals may change. Initially, they are creamy, then they turn pink, and then red or greenish. Sometimes there are a very large number of flowers, as a result of which the branches of the plant begin to sag and / or break under their weight. In this case, the plant definitely needs support.

The leaves of hydrangea paniculata are quite bright and large(about 15 cm long). They have a velvety texture with a slight pubescence. propagate panicled hydrangea seeds, cuttings, layering and dividing the bush.

Types of paniculate hydrangeas

Varieties of this beautiful plant quite a lot, but most of them use especially popular at gardeners. So, the following types are most often grown:

Some varieties of paniculata are used hydrangeas in landscape design . Masters of landscape design prefer to combine paniculate hydrangea with tree hydrangea, creating unique and attractive compositions. This plant is also quite often planted next to roses, peonies, Goryanka, irises, and ephedra. In park areas and squares, paniculate hydrangea is planted near birches, maples and willows.

Mostly landscape designers they prefer to decorate the facade of the building with the help of hydrangeas. The following types are most often used in landscape design:

In addition to all the above species of this plant, there is still quite a many different varieties. Some of them require a lot of moisture and ultraviolet rays, others prefer acidic soil and shady places, and still others bloom much more abundantly and magnificently. In any case, which of these varieties the gardener would not have chosen, panicled hydrangea will decorate the site and give it a special chic.

Planting and care features of hydrangea paniculata

Initially, before you start planting a plant, it is very important to choose the right place. Some types of hydrangea grow better on the shady side, while others prefer constant direct exposure to sunlight. At the same time, the soil must certainly be fertile, since sandy soil for hydrangeas is categorically not suitable.

Big part of the hydrangea varieties thrives best in an acidic environment. The brightness of the flowers and the number of "panicles" depend on this factor. You can acidify the soil with brown peat or sawdust. There is no need to add dolomite flour, ash and lime.

Planting paniculate hydrangea can be done in open ground in March or early autumn. At the same time, it is better to purchase a plant in the spring season, since it is during this period that it will better take root faster and begin to grow more actively.

It is better to make a hole for planting wider, at least 75 centimeters and deeper - about 55 centimeters. Minerals must be added to it. organic fertilizers, pour fertile earth and slightly moisten it. As soon as the liquid is completely absorbed, you need to fill in the remaining soil, trying not to deepen the root neck, which must necessarily remain flush with the surface. If it is planned plant several seedlings at once, then the distance between them should be at least 1.5 meters for tall bushes and 75 centimeters for dwarf ones.

Hydrangea paniculata is unpretentious in care and it is enough to follow a number of simple rules for caring for it. When caring for this plant, you will need to follow the following recommendations:

Diseases of hydrangea paniculata

There is also a number of specific diseases, which can affect the paniculate hydrangea. Most often, the plant begins to hurt with improper care or when grown on the shady side, where the sun's rays never penetrate. Typical diseases include the following:

You can fight the above diseases with the help of special preparations called fungicides. It is necessary to fight the disease when the first symptoms are noticed.

Paniculata hydrangea also pests can infect. For example, snails, leaf beetles and weevils can eat leaves; aphids and bugs - suck the juice out of them; bugs, nematodes - eat roots. Various folk and specialized remedies will help the plant to get rid of such pests.

hydrangea flower