Fortunately for gardeners, hydrangea diseases are not very common. However, yellowing of hydrangea leaves, aphids, fungal and viral diseases sometimes affect this luxurious plant. How to prevent hydrangea diseases and how to organize the correct treatment of hydrangeas, if the trouble has climbed onto your site, we will talk in today's article.

It’s worth saying right away that the lion’s share of hydrangea diseases is transferred through seedlings. Therefore, you should buy hydrangea seedlings only in reliable nurseries, and when propagating hydrangeas with cuttings, be sure that the parent plant is healthy. Most often, hydrangea diseases occur when high humidity air, especially with a strong density of plantings.

Another group of hydrangea diseases occurs due to a lack of certain substances, primarily chlorosis, which manifests itself as yellowing of hydrangea leaves. Let's start our review with it.

Hydrangea chlorosis

Hydrangea chlorosis

Hydrangea chlorosis occurs due to metabolic disorders in the plant. It is experiencing iron deficiency, as a result of which the leaves of hydrangeas turn yellow, brighten, and the veins on the leaves remain dark. If you try to ignore this disease of hydrangeas, over time the plant will weaken and lose its beauty. To prevent chlorosis of hydrangeas, they are fertilized with iron-containing preparations according to the instructions. You should also avoid watering hydrangeas with tap water, for these purposes it is better to take a softer, rain water. Most often, the leaves of hydrangeas growing on soils rich in lime and overfed with humus turn yellow. But what if the leaves of hydrangeas have already turned yellow?

For a faster recovery of the bush, it is recommended spraying hydrangeas preparations Agricol, iron chelate, antichlorosis, ferovit, ferrilen, micro Fe, brexil. In especially advanced cases of hydrangea chlorosis, these drugs should be applied under the root.

Another option - hydrangea treatment for chlorosis with a solution potassium nitrate (40 grams of potassium nitrate per bucket of water) and iron sulfate(iron vitriol) in the same concentration. After 2-3 waterings with saltpeter, wait three days and pour over with a solution of ferrous sulfate.

Fungal diseases of hydrangeas

Do not be alarmed - in fact, hydrangeas are rarely affected by fungal diseases. But it is better to be prepared for unpleasant surprises. A universal remedy for fungal diseases of hydrangeas is treatment with copper oxychloride (HOM) - this is the most suitable for hydrangeas.

White rot of hydrangeas

White rot of hydrangeas

It's mushroom hydrangea disease begins with root rot. As a result, the plant does not receive nutrients, it turns brown and dies. If the disease affects young hydrangeas, the growing shoots and leaves darken, begin to rot and become covered with “cotton wool” - a soft white coating. Over time, black blotches appear in the “cotton wool” - sclerotia. The causative agent of the disease remains in the soil, getting there with plant debris.

Hydrangea white rot treatment: for fungal diseases of hydrangeas, phytosporin showed high efficiency. Other fungicides may also be used.

Gray mold of hydrangeas

Gray mold of hydrangeas

Another dangerous disease hydrangeas, in which the tissues of the plant become watery, soft. In dry weather, the dead tissue dries up, falls out, and holes remain in the leaves and on the stem. In wet weather, the fungus spreads very quickly, all infected areas are covered with "gray wool". Gray rot is difficult to exterminate, since this disease is characteristic of almost everyone. garden plants.

Treatment of gray mold of hydrangeas : dead parts of hydrangeas must be removed. The results are obtained by processing hydrangeas with Chistotsvet, Skorom, Fundazol.

Downy mildew of hydrangeas (downy mildew)

This hydrangea disease manifests itself in the form of oily, over time and darkening spots on the stems and leaves. Fungal disease actively develops at high humidity and a temperature of 18-20 degrees.

Treatment of downy mildew of plants : the plant is treated with a solution of soapy water and copper sulfate (15 grams of vitriol and 150 grams of soap per bucket of water). This treatment of hydrangeas will help in the early stages of the disease. You can treat hydrangea with fungicides.

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas

This fungal disease of hydrangeas is characterized by the presence of yellow-green spots on the leaves, which eventually turn brown and take on clear forms. At the same time, a purple or grayish coating is visible on the lower part of the sheet. Over time, the affected leaves fall off. Young shoots are especially affected by this fungus, they are deformed and, as a rule, do not survive wintering.

Powdery mildew treatment : hydrangea is sprayed with fungicides - Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M. If the hydrangea disease has severely affected the plant, Chistotsvet, Thiovit Jet, Topaz, Skor, Strobi, Cumulus can be used.

Septoria hydrangeas (septoria blotch of hydrangeas)

Septoria hydrangeas

Such a disease of hydrangeas as septoria manifests itself in the form of brown spots of a rounded irregular shape, with a light center and a dark rim. Hydrangea septoria affects leaves, but in neglected plants it spreads to young stems and petioles. Over time, the spots merge, the leaves die off. Hydrangea disease septoria reduces the ability of hydrangeas to hibernate.

Treatment of septoria hydrangeas: treatment with copper-containing preparations - copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, etc.

Among other common fungal diseases of hydrangeas - common cancer, tracheomycosis wilt, cortical necrosis, phyllostic and ascochitous spotting. In general, the treatment of hydrangeas for fungal diseases is carried out with fungicides. But fungal diseases are not the worst thing that can happen to hydrangeas.

Viral diseases of hydrangeas

Hydrangea ring spot

The most frequently occurring Hydrangea ring spot is a viral disease of hydrangeas. Initially, blurry spots of necrosis in the form of rings appear on the leaves of hydrangeas, the leaves begin to wrinkle, become asymmetric. With a strong defeat by the ring spot, the plant cannot lay buds, or the flowers turn out to be small, weak.

Hydrangea ring spot treatment. Unfortunately, this viral disease of hydrangeas cannot be treated. You need to carefully monitor the quality of seedlings.

Hydrangea pests

Snails on hydrangeas

Snails love hydrangeas. Most often it is an ordinary amber or a grape snail. They especially like moist shady thickened plantings. Snails on hydrangeas eat buds, young shoots and leaves. Snails pose a great danger to hydrangeas wintering under shelter: mollusks burrow into the soil around the bush, and as soon as the temperature rises in spring, they get out of the ground and feed on the first buds and leaves. Near the hydrangea bush, you can see the clutches of snails.

How to get rid of snails on hydrangeas: in addition to the mechanical destruction of these mollusks and their clutches in spring and summer, metaldehyde or "Thunderstorm" can be used. These poisonous preparations should not be placed directly on the ground - they clog the soil, and cease to act, mixing with the soil. Chemicals are poured into cups and laid out in a horizontal position around the bush.

Spider mite on hydrangea

Spider mite on hydrangea

If you notice that small yellow spots appear on the back of the hydrangea leaf, which eventually merge into a marble pattern - this is the spider mite on the hydrangea. Over time, the affected leaf dries out and falls off. If these hydrangea pests have thoroughly populated the bush, you can see cobwebs with mites (with a small lesion, the spider mite is not visible to the naked eye), necrosis appears.

Treatment of hydrangea from Putin's mite: apply insectoacaracids and acaracids - thiophos, preparations Lightning, Akarin, Fitoverm, Vermitek. With a weak damage to the hydrangea by a spider mite, treatment with mineral oil or soap can help.

Aphids on hydrangeas

Settling on hydrangeas, the aphid sucks the juice from the plant, simultaneously polluting it with sugary secretions. They, in turn, serve as food for soot fungi. Aphids on hydrangeas are also dangerous because they can carry viruses. Aphids settle on the lower part of the leaf, with a strong lesion, the hydrangea may turn yellow, and the leaves will fall off.

Treatment of hydrangeas from aphids: with a weak lesion, you can try to simply wash off the pests of hydrangeas with soapy water. Insecticides - Tobacco dust, Spark, Bison, Antilin, Fitoverm, Aktara, Akarin, Tanrek, Commander and other means - are used for large-scale aphids.

Gall nematode on hydrangea

This pest lives on the roots of hydrangeas. Microscopic worms - gall nematodes - form brown round swellings on the root, called galls. The galls rot, the roots die off, the hydrangeas do not receive nutrients. Most often, this pest of hydrangeas affects young bushes.

There are a lot of insects that can harm hydrangeas: bugs, pennitsy, leaf-eating pests (weevils, leaf beetle, caterpillars, scoops, deer, bronzovki, earwigs). However, for a healthy, strong plant and a caring owner, these pests are not particularly scary.

Hydrangea diseases: prevention

Don't take it for granted, but remember: prevention is the best cure. Diseases of hydrangeas can be severely damaged if the bush is weak, and a healthy plant will endure the disease with firmness.

What can weaken a plant, making it easy prey for fungi, viruses, and pests?

-sunshine and insufficient watering. If the air temperature exceeds 30 degrees, the inflorescences and leaves of the hydrangea begin to fade. Therefore, hydrangea loves partial shade. In such heat, you need to water the plant at least every other day. By the way, it has been noticed that varieties of hydrangeas with a bright blue color are less prone to withering.

- improper feeding, unsuitable soil. We wrote more about this in the article. Here we only mention that hydrangea does not like heavy soils. At the beginning of summer, a stake is made on nitrogenous fertilizers, in summer - on potash-phosphorus, in autumn - on phosphorus.

-wood treatment with chemicals for prevention. The standard option is hydrangea processing (100 grams per bucket of water). It is used before the growing season, in the spring, because copper sulfate burns the leaves. Perfectly disinfects the earth. You can also use a mixture of lime and copper sulfate - Bordeaux mixture, this solution is suitable for fighting fungi. An excellent alternative to Bordeaux liquid - oxychom (HOM, copper oxychloride), Topaz, Fitosporin, Spark and many other drugs. Modern drugs are generally less harmful to the environment than their predecessors - pay attention to this.

We hope our article will help overcome hydrangea diseases, or warn them. Although a lot will depend on the variety of hydrangeas - some new varieties have a rather low immunity to fungi. You can read more about, as well as about and about the right one in our separate articles.

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board of the Sobcorrespondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-industrial bulletin"

In the process of growth, hydrangea is often exposed to the negative effects of diseases and pests. The gardener needs to know the signs, causes and methods for eliminating leaf bronze, powdery mildew, gray rot, phyllostictosis, spider mites, aphids and many others in order to prevent the death of the plant in time.

Diseases

Leaf bronze is a viral disease in which small holes appear on the surface of the leaves. The leaf tissue is partially discolored, the leaves lose their elasticity, wrinkle, fall off. Cannot be cured, affected plants are destroyed. For prevention, measures are being taken to combat thrips, which are carriers of the bronze virus.

powdery mildew

powdery mildew is a rapidly spreading fungal disease. At the initial stage, it appears as a white powdery coating on the leaves, similar to flour or chalk. Then the plaque spreads to the whole plant, dark spots form on the leaves. These are ulcers that arise from the fact that the mycelium penetrates the tissues of the plant and begins to feed on its juices. If the disease is not stopped quickly, the plant may die. Fungicides are used to control the disease.

Gray rot

Gray rot is a fungal disease that affects most garden and garden plants. The spread of the disease is facilitated by high humidity combined with cool weather.

Hydrangeas are more prone to fungal diseases than other garden plants because they love moisture. And moisture contributes to the spread of pathogenic fungi. Therefore, it is better not to wait for the onset of symptoms of the disease, but to take preventive measures- spray with fungicides in the spring, as soon as the leaves bloom.

It manifests itself in the form of brown, rapidly growing spots on the leaves and stems of hydrangeas. In wet weather, voluminous gray formations appear on the spots - mycelium and spores of the fungus. When signs of disease appear, the affected parts of the plant are removed. Bushes are sprayed with copper-containing preparations (for example, Bordeaux mixture) or fungicides.

Septoria leaf spot is a fungal disease that develops with high humidity. Initially, it appears as small dark spots on the leaves, then the spots increase in size, they have a reddish edging. Subsequently, the leaves die off. To combat the disease, copper-containing preparations and fungicides are used.

Phyllostictosis

Phyllosticosis ( brown spot) is a fungal disease that spreads through soil, water, and also with the wind from a diseased plant to a healthy one. In affected plants, round spots with a brown-brown center appear on the leaf plates. Then the leaf tissues are torn, holes appear. Plants lose their decorative effect, with a strong defeat they can die. When the first symptoms appear, the affected leaves must be removed. Plants are sprayed with fungicides. It must be borne in mind that the spread of brown spot is promoted by high humidity.

Pests

The spider mite is a small sucking pest. Spider mite colonies live first on the underside of the leaves, then spread throughout the plant. They feed on the juices of the plant, leading to its weakening. The first signs of a tick are numerous light dots on the leaves. Then a thin gray web begins to appear. With a slight lesion, the leaves are wiped with soapy water or mineral oil, with a strong one they are treated with insecticides.

Aphid

Aphids are sucking pests that settle on the foliage and young shoots of a plant in whole colonies. Aphids pierce the integument of the plant and feed on its juices, gradually depleting. Due to numerous punctures, the leaves begin to curl and curl - this is one of the signs of aphids infestation. With a weak lesion, it can be washed off with a soapy solution. In case of strong, it is necessary to treat with insecticides (Aktellik, Decis, Biotlin, Iskra, etc.)

Scale insects and false scale insects are a large group of sucking pests, including many species. Most garden plants are affected. Insects are medium-sized, but visible to the naked eye, appear as whitish or golden-brown bumps on the stems and the back of the foliage. Pests suck cell sap from leaves and young shoots, leading to their depletion and deformation. With a slight lesion, you can wipe the affected leaves with a cotton swab dipped in kerosene. In case of severe damage, they are treated with insecticides.

The simplest remedy for sucking pests is a solution of laundry soap. The soap is finely cut, poured with warm water and stirred until dissolved. Then the pest colonies are sprayed with this solution.

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Hydrangeas are amazingly beautiful and diverse shrubs.

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In horticulture, hydrangeas are valued for the variety of inflorescence forms, an extensive palette of flowers, large curly leaves, interesting bark, as well as for their unpretentiousness and abundant flowering. An unusually spectacular spectacle of hydrangeas is presented in autumn, when on one plant you can simultaneously see buds, seed heads and leaves of different colors.

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Hydrangea, Latin - Hydrangea, folk - flower-life.

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The botanical name of the shrub - hydrangea - is known only to specialists. Meanwhile, in translation from Greek, it means "a vessel with water" and speaks of a very important quality of the plant - it loves moisture very much.

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Most of the species are bushes 1-3 m high, some species are small trees, the rest - creepers, climbing the trunks of other trees to a height of up to 30 m.

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Plants can be either deciduous or evergreen., however, the widely cultivated temperate species are deciduous.

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Hydrangeas bloom from spring to late autumn. The flowers are collected at the end of the stem in beautiful spherical inflorescences - a shield or panicle.

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In most species, the flower heads contain two types of flowers: small fertile (fertile) flowers in the middle and large sterile (sterile) flowers at the edges. In some species, all flowers are fertile and have the same size.

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The vast majority of hydrangea flowers are white, but some, such as large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink and lilac.

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In these species, the color often depends on the pH level (hydrogen index) in the soil: in acidic soils, the petals become blue in color, in neutral soils they become pale beige, and in alkaline soils they become pink or lilac.

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Hydrangeas are one of the few plants that can accumulate aluminum in themselves, which is released from acidic soils and in some species forms compounds that give them blue hues.

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The main types of hydrangeas

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The total number of species is from 70 to 80; we list here only the main ones.

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Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens).

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A species naturally growing in eastern North America. Inflorescences are white. Flowering in July-August. late autumn faded inflorescences are recommended to be cut. Pruning of frozen, thickened and weakened shoots should be carried out either before the start of sap flow, or after the leaves have fully bloomed. One of the famous varieties is Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ with dark leaves and very large greenish inflorescences.

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Bretschneider's Hydrangea (Hydrangea bretschneideri).

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View from China. Large shrub up to two and a half meters high. The leaves are large oval, dark green. Inflorescences are broad corymbs. Blooms from early July; at the beginning of flowering, the flowers are white, by the end of July they turn pink, and in August they acquire a rich crimson color. In the conditions of the European part of Russia, the plant does not require shelter for the winter.

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Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla).

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View from South Japan. The leaves are bright green and large. Lilac inflorescences bloom in August. Winter hardiness is low; in the conditions of the European part of Russia, only some especially cold-resistant varieties do not freeze out, for example, Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Blue Wave’ and ‘Endless Summer’. This species is also grown as a houseplant.

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Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata).

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The natural range of the species is East China, Korea, Japan, Sakhalin. Plants about one and a half meters high. Green buds appear in mid-July, by the end of the month they turn white; flowering - from August throughout the autumn; inflorescences - with a smooth transition from white to crimson and crimson with a purple hue. Hydrangea paniculata has a high winter hardiness. In autumn, pruning of faded inflorescences is recommended, in spring - sanitary and formative pruning. Known varieties- Hydrangea paniculata ‘Kyushu’, ‘Pinky Winky’, ‘Grandiflora’.

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Landing

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Before planting cuttings of Hydrangea arborescens in early April, it is necessary to dig a hole with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 60-70 cm. Next, you need to place a cutting in the hole and fill it with a previously prepared mixture of humus, black soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1. It is also necessary to add 20 g of urea and 30 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate. Repeat similar complex top dressing after 2 years.

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Top dressing with mineral fertilizers or manure can be carried out at the beginning of growth, during the formation of buds and 1-2 times in summer in smaller doses. Plants should be planted at a distance of about 150 cm from each other. Do not place the plant next to trees, as they actively absorb moisture from the soil.

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It is not required to cover for the winter. Thanks to a powerful root system, in case of freezing, the plant is restored to its previous state. It starts blooming at 4-5 years.

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Panicled hydrangea seedlings planted in a permanent place at 4-5 years of age. To do this, prepare a hole with a depth of 35-40 cm, a width of 50 x 70 cm. And for a free hedge, they dig up a meter strip. The distance between adult plants should be up to 2.5 m, but in order to have a “bouquet” earlier, the pits are marked out after 0.7-1 m, and after a few years the group is thinned out. In the northern regions, it is better to plant hydrangea in spring, in more southern regions - in spring and autumn.

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The roots are slightly shortened, and if it happens in the spring, then all annual shoots, leaving 3-4 pairs of buds on each. Plantings are mulched with peat, a compost layer of 5-8 cm. Since autumn, they are fed with mineral fertilizers, and in early spring- a solution of urea at the rate of 18-20 g per bucket, 2-3 buckets per plant.

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Hydrangea macrophylla relatively photophilous, but it can be planted in light partial shade, however, the less light, the later flowering occurs and the fewer inflorescences. The soil is preferably slightly or medium acidic (pH 5.5); one of the compositions: sheet, sod land, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:1:1:1. On alkaline soil, hydrangea suffers from chlorosis (leaves begin to turn yellow). In order to avoid chlorosis, watering with a solution of salts containing iron is carried out once every 10 days.

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Depending on the acidity of the soil, you can change the color of the flowers. With a slightly alkaline reaction of the medium, they are pink, with an acidic reaction they change color to blue or blue. To obtain blue and blue inflorescences, it is necessary to add iron salts and alum to the soil every two weeks: 3-5 potassium alum or ammonia-potassium alum per 1 liter of water. For one plant, 2 liters of such a solution are needed.

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To accelerate flowering, the plant is sprayed twice with an aqueous solution of gibberellins with an interval of 4-7 days at a concentration of 50 mg / l. Then the hydrangea blooms 2-4 weeks earlier. This technique also increases the decorativeness of plants. The flowers are getting bigger and there are more of them. Processing of plants is carried out when the inflorescences reach 2-4 cm. It grows quickly, thermophilic, demanding on soil and moisture, does not tolerate lime. Reconciles with slight shading, low frost resistance (up to -18 ° C).

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Hydrangea serrata "Miyama-kuro-hime"

Easily propagated by dividing the bush and green cuttings. In Russia, large-leaved hydrangea grows in open ground only in the south. When cultivating in a greenhouse or in a room at the very end of the growing season, when the hydrangea begins to shed its leaves, the shoots must be cut short. In winter, during the dormant period, the plants are kept in a cool, but non-freezing room (+5 ° C), and at the end of winter, when the buds swell, they are transferred to a warmer and brighter room, but without direct sunlight. Also, this species can be cultivated as a container culture, which is kept on outdoors only during the summer season.

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IN Lately with the development of agricultural technology and climate warming, large-leaved hydrangea began to be cultivated in the open ground of central Russia. At garden hydrangea inflorescences are formed on last year's shoots. Therefore, the main problem is to keep them whole so that the flower buds do not freeze and rot.

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Covering methods are the same as for roses. Among the varieties of garden hydrangea there are more winter-hardy varieties and those that can be grown in middle lane Russia only with the introduction of plants for the winter indoors. Even relatively winter-hardy varieties of garden hydrangea, due to the characteristics of the microclimate, may not grow and bloom in all areas.

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Large-leaved hydrangea bushes tolerate frost better if they receive enough moisture in the fall. Flowers and leaves large-leaved hydrangeas perish even with weak night frosts, so it is recommended to cover them already in the second half of October. You can cover the bushes from short-term frosts with a covering material and a greenhouse film, always in two layers. In winter, the plants are covered with peat at the base, the branches bend down to the ground and fall asleep with dry leaves, spruce branches.

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The soil

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For a successful abundant flowering necessary fertile soils . Hydrangea prefers clay structural soil, it also grows on red soils, but does not like sandy soils.

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By the way, the color of the flowers becomes brighter in the hydrangea paniculata, growing on acidic soil., and on neutral it not only turns pale, but the whole plant has a hard time. Therefore, if the soil on the site is not acidic enough, when planting, it is necessary to add brown peat, coniferous soil (spruce, and preferably semi-rotted pine litter), sawdust. Ash, lime, chalk and other deoxidizers are contraindicated for all hydrangeas. The root system is shallow. The roots mainly spread in width, and as a result, their border significantly exceeds the crown border.

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They need moist soil to thrive. A good solution would be to plant ground cover plants in near-trunk circles, for example, mossy saxifrage, various stonecrops.

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Growing conditions

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Hydrangea is propagated mainly by herbaceous cuttings from basal shoots. Cuttings from lateral shoots produce weaker plants, so they are avoided.

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Cuttings of large-leaved Hydrangea grown in the house are carried out in February-March (even until April 15). Hydrangeas rooted in February-March can be grown in 4-5 stems, rooted later should be arranged in one stem.

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Cuttings of large-leaved Hydrangea grown in the garden are carried out from June to July inclusive, until woody shoots. Depending on the availability of wiring material, the cuttings are cut with 2-4 knots with a sharp and clean knife. Cuttings with small leaves take root more successfully. You need to cut the cuttings just before planting them. You can not bring the cuttings to wilting.

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IN last case wilted cuttings should be immersed in water for a while. The leaves are shortened by one third or half.

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Cuttings are rooted in reconnaissance boxes, on racks, in greenhouses. Good results are obtained by rooting cuttings in coniferous soil; the cuttings are not covered with anything, but only often sprayed with water. Rooting cuttings are planted to a depth of 2 cm, but cuttings lower leaves do not sink into the soil. Planting distance 4-5 cm.

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After planting, they should be watered, bearing in mind that withered cuttings of hydrangeas are difficult to restore turgor and take root worse. Wilting of cuttings is very often the cause of poor rooting. Hydrangeas need to be shaded from bright sunlight. Some growers root hydrangea cuttings under glass, but this method often causes the cuttings to rot.

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The rooting temperature is maintained at about 14-17 ° C. More low temperature lengthens the rooting period, and, therefore, provides more opportunities for cuttings to rot. When cutting hydrangeas, cleanliness must be observed.

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Rooted cuttings (this usually takes 15-20 days) are planted in boxes or on racks at a distance of 8 × 8 cm or in 7-9 cm pots.

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Growing hydrangeas in pots is uneconomical: more space and labor required. The soil for hydrangea cuttings should be acidic, consisting of swamp and compost soil. If the compost soil does not have acidity, then peat is used. For white, pink and red hydrangeas, slightly acidic soil (pH 5-6) is recommended, for blue and lilac - more acidic (pH 4-4.5). With insufficient acidity, the leaves of the hydrangea turn yellow. To avoid this, the soil is watered with a weak solution of sulfuric acid (5 g per 100 liters of water).

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Planting plants in boxes or on racks makes it easier to care for plants, they grow and develop better. The cuttings are watered with water that does not contain lime, which neutralizes the acidity of the soil. Do not use manure that is not completely rotted, which can cause yellowing of the leaves. The same phenomenon can occur from an excess of lime in the soil, since with insufficient soil acidity, hydrangeas will not be able to absorb potassium, magnesium, and iron.

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It is advisable to prepare the soil in the previous autumn or early winter, so that the applied fertilizers can decompose sufficiently. For 1 m3 of soil, 2 kg of bone meal, 0.75 kg of potassium sulfate, 1.5 g of ammonium sulfate are added. Thomasslag and other alkaline fertilizers are not recommended.

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Rooted plants are fed weekly in the spring. full fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen fertilizers. The temperature should be around 14°C. In May, boxes with hydrangeas are transferred to cold greenhouses. Early varieties with a short growth period, which form flower buds faster, are pruned in the first half of June, and late varieties in May. Pruning is done over two pairs of normally developed leaves. These plants will have 3-4 shoots.

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Do not prune plants of late cuttings, as they usually bloom in one cap. To get low indoor plants You need to make sure they don't stretch. The cut tops of the plants are rooted to produce single-stemmed plants. Two weeks before pruning or two weeks after it, the plants are planted in pots in which they should bloom.

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Elongated hydrangeas, when planted in pots, are planted deeper than they sat to reduce their height. Hydrangeas form roots even on lignified stems.

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Single-stem plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm, and two-four-stem plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 12-14 cm. At first, plants in greenhouses after planting are shaded from bright sunlight. After rooting, plants do not need shading: it can even lead to stretching of plants.

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Plants that are still weakly rooted in pots should be protected from heavy rains., so they are not immediately taken out of the greenhouse to the ridges of open ground. All weak shoots of hydrangeas are cut out, since only large hats of flowers are considered decorative.

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Hydrangeas are moisture-loving plants, so they need to be watered and sprayed in a timely manner.. For getting ornamental plants hydrangeas are systematically fed alternately with a solution of mullein and a mixture of mineral salts. Early varieties of hydrangeas finish their growth by August, so from this month they stop feeding them and reduce watering, and then even dry them a little to ripen the buds. Late varieties finish growth a month later, after which they are also watered less frequently.

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During the ripening of the buds, the plants are sprayed so as not to cause severe wilting.. In early September, hydrangeas of early varieties are given pre-harvest top dressing, which brings the flowering time closer. In winter, plants are best kept in cool greenhouses, basements, greenhouses.

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With insufficient light, the temperature in the greenhouse should be about 2-4 ° C. In order for the hydrangea to bloom in December-January, it has been provided with additional electric lighting since October. Additional lighting of hydrangeas brings the onset of flowering much closer.

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Hydrangeas are placed under lamps with rudimentary buds and given in winter time additional lighting for 8-10 hours. The best result is observed at night lighting. It accelerates flowering by 7-20 days. Daylight is less effective.

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Under the condition of good natural illumination of the greenhouse, the earliest suspension of growth is carried out in November-December for flowering only in early March. For this use early varieties with well-ripened buds. With a lack of light, plants are grown at a relatively low temperature of about 10 ° C, which prolongs the flowering period.

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To accelerate the flowering of hydrangeas, warm baths are used: plants are kept in water at a temperature of 35 ° C for 12 hours. After the bath, hydrangeas are placed in greenhouses with a temperature of 15-16 ° C.

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Good results are also obtained by spraying plants twice at a temperature of 12-14 ° C with heteroacusin.(100 mg of heteroacusin per 1 liter of water). With the appearance of leaves, hydrangeas begin to water more. On sunny days, the temperature in the greenhouse can rise to 20 °C. At this time, you need to carefully monitor that the plants are sufficiently well supplied with moisture. In the greenhouse, hydrangeas should stand freely, without shading each other.

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When hydrangea buds appear, weekly feed alternately with mullein infusion and solution mineral mixture dominated by nitrogen. The surface of the soil in pots should be loosened. When flowers are formed, hydrangeas are tied to pegs. To obtain exhibition bushes of hydrangeas with large and abundant flowers, the following method can be used.

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Old hydrangeas, cut 25-30 cm from the ground, are planted in the ground so that the root neck is covered with earth. For the winter, plants bent to the ground are covered with spruce branches, dry leaves, etc. In the spring, old stems are cut to the ground. During the summer, multi-stemmed bushes are formed. Plants are watered abundantly.

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Within 5-6 years, you can grow tub hydrangeas with several dozen umbrellas. With an increase in the number of shoots, it is necessary to take larger pots with a diameter: with one shoot - with a diameter of 10 cm, with two or three shoots - with a diameter of 12-13 cm, with a larger number of shoots, pots with a diameter of 15-18 cm are taken. Hydrangea usually has pink flowers. However, in some areas, peat and heather soils cause the flowers to turn blue. The same phenomenon can be caused by the use of conventional alum (25-30 g per 10-12 liters of water), aluminum and iron sulfates. But not all varieties of hydrangea change the color of the flowers to blue.

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The best variety for this purpose is the Blue Prince. Suitable soil for hydrangeas with blue flowers is a soddy land with swampy meadows. The presence of iron and aluminum in this soil gives the blue color to hydrangea flowers. Watering with a solution of alum begins 2-2.5 months before flowering.

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Hydrangea Care

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Lighting: Bright diffused light. In summer, you can take it out into the garden, gradually accustoming it to direct sunlight, and then, when the plants get used to it, the pots are dug into the ground and left until autumn.

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Watering: Abundant from spring to autumn. Hydrangeas love when they are watered when the earth in pots dries up a little, but not allowing the entire earthen clod to dry out. Does not tolerate hard water well.

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Air humidity: spray from time to time.

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Top dressing: Fertilizer dressing is carried out with liquid mineral and organic fertilizers after watering. Feed in summer and at the end of winter before flowering. After pruning, do not feed until new shoots appear.

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Undercut: halfway after flowering.

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Diseases and pests

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Spider mite. It affects the leaves from the underside, causing them to turn yellow and marble, then dry and fall off. At the optimal temperature for the tick (29-31 °C) and humidity (35-55%), the cycle of its development takes 7-9 days. The tick covers the underside of the leaf with a brown cobweb. For a year it gives 12-15 generations. At low temperatures (10-12°C) and high humidity (80-85%), its activity is significantly reduced.

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Control measures: spraying plants with thiophos (5-7 g per 10 l of water).

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Downy mildew. It affects the leaves and stems of hydrangeas. Its first signs are the appearance on the leaves of oily, later turning yellow spots, gradually darkening and increasing in size. A yellowish coating appears below the leaves, the same coating can be on young stems. The development of the disease is facilitated by a temperature of 18-20 ° C and high humidity.

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Control measures: treatment of affected plants with copper-soap liquid (150 g of green soap, 15 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). This liquid is harmless to plants, and its use in the early stages of development helps to completely get rid of the disease.

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Chlorosis. A sign of chlorosis is the lightening of the leaves, only the veins on them remain dark. Plants growing on soils with a significant amount of lime are more susceptible to chlorosis. An excess of humus in the soil also leads to chlorosis.

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Control measures: Pour 2-3 times with a solution of potassium nitrate at the rate of 40 g per 10 liters of water and three days later - with a solution of ferrous sulfate, also 40 g per 10 liters of water.

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Leaf aphid. In closed ground conditions, when forcing plants, hydrangea can be affected by green leaf aphids.

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Control measures: a good remedy its destruction is a double spraying of plants with a solution of anabazine sulfate. To do this, 15-20 g of anabazine sulfate is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This serves as a radical remedy in the fight against leaf aphids.

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How nice it is to have such a variegated set of these wonderful flowers in the garden! But the best part is that the hydrangea is not too difficult to care for and in the fall it will be able to please you with an abundance of rich colors and shapes.

25:1322 25:1332 Hydrangea diseases and their treatment

Hydrangea, or hydrangea (lat. Hydrangea) is a plant of the flowering genus, the Hortensia family. This culture, adored by many gardeners, has more than 80 species; the most common of them:

• hydrangea;
• garden;
• large-leaved;
• paniculate.

All of them differ in the shape of the bush and inflorescence, size, but common hydrangea diseases and pests are characteristic of all species.

Share such ailments of this culture:

• caused by violation of metabolic processes;
• fungal;
• viral.

Garden hydrangea diseases caused by metabolic disorders

Culture is quite demanding in care. There are certain factors to which hydrangea reacts very sharply, leaf diseases are most often provoked:

• bright scorching sun;
• excess moisture;
• lack of nutrients;
• changes in soil acidity.

Falling hydrangea leaves

If the leaves began to turn yellow and crumble, this indicates a lack of watering in hot weather, and a lack of minerals. It is necessary to increase the amount of moisture, and nourish the plant. Regular top dressing should be carried out every 10 days.

Dry blackening of leaves

Brown dry spots may appear on the edges of the leaf plates, which gradually cover the entire foliage. Reasons: hard water and sunburn. It is necessary to shade the plants, and defend the water.

Wet blackening of leaves

The leaves become soft and shapeless, acquire a dark color. This can happen due to heavy soils, a sharp jump in temperature, or excessive watering. The irritant should be eliminated, or the plant should be transplanted.

Hydrangea chlorosis, treatment of a common disease

The leaves of a diseased plant lighten and turn yellow, while the veins remain dark. You can observe the shallowing of the foliage and the deformation of the buds. The main cause of the disease: a metabolic disorder in the plant (it lacks iron, or it cannot independently absorb it from the soil). Most often, chlorosis occurs in cases where the bush has been growing in one place for many years.

For the treatment of iron deficiency, drugs are used: Antichlorosis, Agricol, Ferovit. You can prepare top dressing yourself:

• 2 grams of iron sulphate and 4 grams citric acid diluted in 1 liter of liquid, leaves are treated with a solution;
• 40 g of calcium nitrate in a bucket of water, water the plant with a mixture several times. Then the procedure is repeated with a solution of ferrous sulfate (similar concentration).

Fungal and viral diseases of garden hydrangea, photos of symptoms

Hydrangea is not often affected by fungal diseases. Fungal spores remain in the soil for a long time, but under favorable weather conditions can cause serious harm.

Gray rot of hydrangea (lat. Botrytis cinerea)

Damaged tissues become soft and watery. In hot weather, they dry out, and depressions eaten away by the fungus form on the plants. The main factor in the development of the disease is rainy weather: the fungus spreads rapidly, and affects the entire bush.

The infected parts of the plant must be removed and burned, and the bush should be sprayed with Fundazol.

Hydrangea peronosporosis (lat. Peronosporaceae)

Humid air and a temperature of 18-20 degrees Celsius contribute to the development of the disease. Formed on the leaves greasy spots which darken over time. Bushes should be treated with the following solution: 150 gr. soap dissolve in 10 liters of water, add 15 gr. copper sulfate.

Powdery mildew hydrangea (lat. Erysiphales)

First, yellow and green spots are visible on the leaves, then a gray coating forms on the lower surface. Affected shoots are deformed and die. The plant is gradually withering. For processing, fungicides should be used: Fitosporin-B, Topaz, Skor.

Septoria hydrangea (lat. Septoria)

Septoria is expressed in brown spots on the leaves (lighter in the center, and darker at the edges). Completely affected leaves and shoots die off. The bush should be treated with copper sulfate.

Viral ring spot of hydrangea (lat. Mycosphaerella brassicicola)

In addition to fungal diseases that can affect hydrangea, diseases of viral origin also require detailed study.

Ring spots are necrotic in nature. The leaves wrinkle, and the plant will certainly die. There is no drug treatment for the disease. Affected bushes must be removed and burned. The cause of the outbreak of the virus may be:

• low-quality planting material;
• insects carrying fungi and viruses;
• unfinished garden tools.

Insects that carry large-leaved hydrangea diseases, photo

Diseases of large-leaved hydrangea, like other species, are often transferred to healthy plants by pests. These insects include:

• gall nematodes;
• spider mites;

Prophylactic remedies for protecting hydrangeas

Since diseases develop under certain weather conditions, when grown in an unstable climate of the Moscow region, the risk of infection with them is quite high. Therefore, preventive plant protection measures are essential:

• in autumn and early spring, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux mixture;
• planting material is subject to processing with copper sulphate;
• before planting, insecticidal preparations are introduced into the soil;
• the site must be regularly cleaned and plant residues destroyed.

Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology is the key to the health of the entire garden. moderate watering, right choice soil, and regular top dressing are mandatory when growing hydrangeas.

Outcome

If you adhere to the growing conditions and follow preventive measures, a beautiful garden hydrangea will bloom on your site; diseases and pests, the photos of which we have selected, are not so terrible if the necessary measures are taken in a timely manner, treatment is started, and the spread is stopped.

Violations of this kind are usually clearly visible and are caused by 3 reasons:

• Sun burns.
• Lack or excess of water.
• Poor mineral balance of the soil.

Chlorosis

It arises from a lack of iron or an excess of lime in the soil.

Symptoms: yellowing and drying of the leaves, while the veins remain green. The disease can capture the entire leaf or appear as large spots.

Treatment: if it is not known exactly what caused the disease, you can start with measures to soften the pH of the soil.

• Soften, acidify the soil with peat or aluminum sulfate. The dosage depends on the degree of alkalization of the soil and ranges from 2 to 5 kg/m3.
• For preventive purposes, flowers are watered with rainwater or water is softened for irrigation (water becomes softer after standing for several days. You can also soften water with ash or peat).
• Reduce fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

If it's an iron deficiency:

• Homemade iron supplement. 2 g of iron sulfate per 1 liter of water. Soften the solution with 4 g of citric acid.
• When the hydrangea is in poor condition, it is wiser to use a store-bought preparation with ferrous sulfate - it will be quickly absorbed by the plant.

Indirectly, one can judge the Ph of the soil by the colors. bright flowers talk about the normal acidity of the soil, dull or neutral tones may indicate alkalization.

Hydrangea

Leaf burns

In the strong sun in summer, hydrangea can get burned. They look like translucent spots, usually white color. Affected areas become thinner, may dry out.

Treatment: shade the plant. When transferring a flower from a shaded area to a strong sun, it is imperative to shade and gradually reduce the shadow.

On a note! Burns are most often characteristic of the hydrangea tree disease.

dry black leaves

Too strong sun and hard water - this is why hydrangea leaves turn black. It happens that the leaves of the hydrangea turn brown around the edge. If no action is taken, blackening can affect the entire flower.

Treatment: shade the flower and use softened water. Then on the hydrangeas brown spots will gradually pass.

Wet black leaves

From a sharp change in temperature or excessive watering, the foliage may turn black, lose shape, and become lethargic. That is why the leaves of the garden hydrangea turn black.

Hydrangea leaves curl - why? This happens if herbicides were sprayed nearby (for example, a lawn was treated). The fact is that this flower is extremely sensitive to herbicidal substances in the soil.

Hydrangea diseases

Hydrangea not blooming

There may be several reasons:

• Newbie mistake - pruning all shoots for the winter. Buds are formed on last year's branches, in the fall. Flowers will not form on this year's shoots.
• Frozen buds. Usually this applies to large-leaved hydrangea, its buds should be well wrapped for the winter with agrofiber or straw.
• Light. In bright sun, it may not bloom at all or bloom weakly. Hydrangea loves diffused light.
• Watering and feeding. Regular watering is necessary, the plant loves water. Feeding can also solve the problem. Usually hydrangea is fed when the buds appear and in early autumn.

It is important to know that due to various growth enhancers, the hydrangea can produce buds in the first year, but there will be no full-fledged flowers until the root system is formed. This only happens for 2 years.

fungal diseases

Caused by small pathogenic fungi. This dangerous diseases hydrangeas, their treatment can be difficult. This is usually associated with high humidity, contamination of the soil and plants.

Fact! Petiole hydrangea is more disease resistant.

white rot

The fungus infects the roots and absorbs the nutrients intended for the shoots. Infection occurs through various plant debris, from neighboring plants. It develops especially rapidly in closed greenhouses, greenhouses, open ground not so dangerous. If you do not fight the fungus, the plant will die and infect the nearest "neighbors".

Symptoms:

• Darkened shoots.
• Rotting stems near the ground.
• White, cotton-like coating on the leaves.

Later, dark spots and blotches appear on the plaque. If the infection has reached the stage white plaque, it is better to remove the plant, otherwise it will infect the entire flower garden.

Hydrangea diseases

Comprehensive treatment is necessary, otherwise the fungus will begin to spread.

• Cut out infected areas and treat the sections with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
• Spray the plants with products containing copper (Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate solution and special preparations for white rot are suitable).

Folk remedy for white rot: a teaspoon of vitriol and 3 liters of whey per 6 liters of water. For processing, a sprayer is used.

White rot can infect almost all plants in the garden. If the affected area on the plant is too large, it is best to remove it and burn it so as not to jeopardize nearby plants.

Gray rot

Leaves and young soft tissues are affected. It usually appears from waterlogging - excessive watering or too dense foliage, crowding of plants. The fungus spreads rapidly in a humid environment.

Symptoms: soft gray coating on the leaves. It can dry out and crumble into dust, uneven holes remain in the tissues of the plant.

Gray rot

Treatment: the main thing is to remove dead areas in time and burn them.

• Treat the plant after removing dead tissue with potassium permanganate, as is the case with white rot. If the disease has gone too far, it is better to destroy the flower so as not to infect others.
• Sick bushes should be sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1% solution) or Fundazol.

Gray rot is no less contagious than white rot, affects vegetables, fruit trees, flowers, leguminous plants.

Downy mildew (downy mildew)

Occurs at an increased level of humidity and high (more than 20 ° C) temperature.

Symptoms: oily, darkening over time spots on the leaves. If treatment is not carried out in time, the spots spread to the stems.

Important! It is impossible to delay the treatment of peronosporosis, the fungus is treated easily only at the initial stage of the lesion.

• Remove affected areas. Treat the sections with potassium permanganate.
• Spray the plants with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, Optimo, Kuproksat preparations.

Peronosporosis affects other flowers: sweet pea, marigolds, primrose, chrysanthemum. It can also be dangerous for vegetable crops.

Powdery mildew real

Usually affects young weakened plants. Often associated with an excess of nitrogenous fertilizers and insufficient watering.

Symptoms: dull yellow-green spots on the leaves, a gray, sometimes purple bloom appears on the back of the leaves.

Powdery mildew causes leaves to fall and the plant to die.

It must be remembered that when using drugs of the fungicidal group, you need to take breaks of 1 year. Otherwise, the fungus can get used to and develop immunity.

Powdery mildew in different crops has its own pathogens, the hydrangea fungus is not dangerous for other crops on the site.

Septoria

Disease of wet cold summer. Leaves are affected, usually the fungus spreads from the lower shoots to the upper ones.

Symptoms: spots up to 5 mm in diameter. Light in the center and dark brown towards the edges. With severe damage, spots may appear on the stems.

The affected plant soon begins to dry out, drop leaves and may die.

Septoria can infect many horticultural crops: apple, quince, eggplant, raspberries. It is also dangerous for asters, chrysanthemums, peony, phlox.

Rust

Fungal disease that affects many cultivated plants. Occurs from excess water and nitrogenous fertilizers.

Symptoms: small yellow spots of yellow color. Later, brown growths develop on the spots, the leaves dry and fall off. Small rusty dust can fall out of the growths. These are fungal spores that are easily carried by the wind and can kill other plants.

There are several types of rust fungus, almost indistinguishable from the outside. Some of the species are capable of infecting most horticultural crops not just flowers.

Viral diseases of hydrangea

Typical modes of infection are garden tool, from a nursery, with new plants, or with dead parts of infected plants. Animal pests can also be carriers of viruses.

ring spot

It spreads regardless of external conditions, dangerous for paniculate hydrangeas.

Symptoms: Spots form in the form of rings on the leaves. At the next stage, the leaves lose their shape, shrink, fall off.

Important! The disease is contagious for the nightshade family, strawberries, grapes, and currants. It is also dangerous for onions, cucumbers, cabbage and celery.

A flower affected by ring spot is likely to stop blooming or produce weakened buds. The plant often dies. If the hydrangea is sick with this virus - what to do, there is no medicine, you will have to destroy the bush. All efforts should be directed to prevention. planting material take only proven, from healthy plants.

hydrangea cancer

The disease appeared relatively recently, with varietal material from Western Europe. It is believed that weakened plants are susceptible to disease, especially those with mechanical damage, such as hail.

Symptoms: brown spots on stems, leaves. On the reverse side, ulcers appear under the spots.

There is no cure for the disease. best method struggle - to remove and burn the affected areas. With a deep defeat of the plant, it is better to destroy it in order to avoid an epidemic. If the disease is not treated, the ulcers increase in size, the shoots die off and the plant dries up. There are no exact data on the infectivity of hydrangea cancer for other crops.

Hydrangea diseases

Disease prevention

Prevention is always safer and more effective than treatment. Here are the main preventive measures:

The aphid colony usually sits in a cluster and is clearly visible on the plant. The first sign that there are aphids on the hydrangea will be drying and yellowing of the leaves.

• When the colony is small, it is enough to wash the plant with a solution of soap or douse it with water from a hose.
• If the colony is large, you need to use special insecticides - Iskra, Bison, Akarina. Means are toxic, you must strictly follow the description and instructions.

On a note! Marigolds growing nearby attract ladybugs, natural enemies of aphids. Thus, planting these flowers serves as a natural prevention of aphids.

A proven home remedy is a decoction of tobacco dust. plus home remedy will be its lower toxicity compared to insecticides.

spider mite

Quite a tiny tick, almost invisible. It feeds on plant sap. Actively breeds in a dry hot season.

spider mite

• While the lesion is small, you can get by with applying to the leaves soap solution or any mineral oil.
• In case of dangerous infection, special means against ticks are used - Akarin, Lightning.

The therapeutic effect of tobacco dust is not as great as against aphids.

gall nematode

Microscopic primitive worm. It affects the roots of plants, sneaks into the trunks. Having multiplied, it can literally poison the plant with caustic secretions.

Important! If the plant is affected by a nematode, there is no reliable treatment. So all hope for prevention.

Prevention:

The slug eats the leaves of plants, prefers young leaves and tips of shoots. Feels especially good in dense thickets, likes shade and high humidity. Slugs are easy to detect by characteristic leaf lesions, they usually hide in leaf axils or under stones in shaded places.

garden slug

Slugs are a serious danger for very young plants, in the spring in greenhouses.

Slugs are usually collected by hand, and the clutches of their eggs are destroyed in the axils of plants. Special chemicals, such as Molluscicide, are toxic.

Preventive treatment with preparations containing copper and fungicides will help resist fungal infections. Hydrangea seedlings should be healthy and not cause suspicion, this will avoid viral diseases, for which there is simply no cure.

Most dangerous pest hydrangeas are a gall nematode, against which only prevention helps. Suitable soil, proper care and attention will save hydrangeas, keep them healthy.